Pamplona (again)

27 August 2025

Long post- Stay with me! A really delicious pilgrim meal last night at my albergue (hostel) in Zubiri where I chatted with Eileen and her mother, Sally from Ireland but now Saskatchewan and also Maggie from sunny Kilkenny, Ireland and her mother Sheila. After dinner walking about to digest in the little town of Zubiri, I ran into my new friends Jill and Janie from Washington, and Claire from New Zealand. We have been together every stage of the way (pardon the pun) so far but tonight we are staying in different towns so we may or may not happen upon each other again. The two young Texans, Summer and Tiffany are crossing paths with me again and again, although with their long twenty something legs, I am sure they will leave me in the dust over the next few days.

Early breakfast at the albergue at 6:30 so I could hit the road by 7:15. I have been worrying about a condition called vasculitis or hiker’s rash which I got a few times while training. Dr. Google says to avoid it I should stay hydrated, don’t overheat, elevate legs, and take a day off (not always possible on the Camino). Definitely hydrated, (and elevating my legs as I write this) I had to stop twice today to tinkle, (TMI?) and walking alongside the Arga River was beautiful but the sound made holding it until the next town a challenge.

Today’s and the end of yesterday’s walking paths going down hill have been tough- mostly loose stones one has to pay closer attention to where to put your feet. I am grateful for my hiking poles as I use them in all capacities- to help me up hills, propel me forward on the flatter zones and brace against gravity on the downhills. Stability!

Entering into the suburbs of Pamplona- the last hour of walking today was along city streets. Out in the countryside you can look ahead and see the line of backpacks, but in the busy city it is easy to lose sight of the pilgrims ahead of you. There are markers painted onto the sidewalks or metal medallions in the cement to mark the path, and of course signs on the buildings.

The symbol of the Camino is the scallop shell. Pilgrims carry them tied to their packs. It is all the different lines (routes) converging in Santiago de Compostela. Also in the Middle Ages, pilgrims would finish the Camino and continue to the ocean in Finesterra and Muxia and get scallop shells to bring back home to “prove” they made it.

I stopped in Pamplona for the evening , but I would like to try to get “off stage”, which means to not stop in the guidebook recommended towns where hostels are often crowded and sold out. I will spend my dinner time plotting tomorrows’ moves- stay tuned!